"Our walk up Buchaille Etive Beag last Sunday was an opportunity for us to start to get to know each other and brush up on winter mountaineering skills; the next thing will be a bothy weekend and at least a couple of camping trips before we commit to three weeks together in the Khumbu Valley below Everest. This is a massive dream for all of these guys and such a positive story out of the all the negativity of the Glasgow drink and drugs scene. What has impressed me most is their utter determination to reform themselves and to support each other while they are doing it. Colin had to dig so deep on Sunday to get to the top, but it was clear that if he hadn’t, none of the rest of the group would have gone there without him. They are going to have to fund-raise, save and train hard to be able to make this dream come true, but the members of Calton Athletic are survivors and they are on their way to Everest!"

When I met John Ferns over two years ago, he introduced himself as a member of the Calton Athletic Recovery Group – a recovering alcoholic and drug addict from the east end of Glasgow. Intrigued by what I do for a living, he asked me where I was off to next and when I said that I was off to Everest Base Camp with a group the very next day he asked excitedly “do you think we could go there?” I remember spontaneously replying “you can go anywhere you like” – which is exactly what they have just done, “they” being eight members of the group who have taken themselves on a journey that they have each wanted, chosen, decided to make – so far removed from the lives they were living, being taken down a road of self-destruction by drink and drugs.

Because of the devastating earthquakes in the spring of last year plans were interrupted, so the group have delayed departure until this year’s autumn season. At least eight members of the Glasgow based alcohol and drug addiction recovery group have committed themselves to the adventure of a lifetime, very likely to be joined by a few more of their colleagues by the time they set off on the 10th of November 2016.

We have had several days out on the hill together now and two bothy weekends for us all to get to know and trust one another before disappearing into the Khumbu and subjecting ourselves to the rarefied atmosphere of the Himalayas. I have never met a group of people who are so utterly there for each other; the commitment and determination to confront a life that has become so chaotic and hopeless, and the help and support that is needed to sustain recovery are all immense the goal of getting themselves to EBC is but a step on that journey, but a huge step! Their excitement is tangible, they are finding it hard to believe that they will visit one of the most famous locations in mountaineering history, but I can so easily anticipate posting a photo of the group at the foot of the Khumbu icefall in a just few month’s time.

The Journey Begins

10th November 2016

Today’s the day we head of to Everest base camp! We would like to thank everybody that has sent us best wishes and helped and supported us over the last 2 year we look forward to seeing you all when we get back. We got a special card from someone we hold in high regard and it was so uplifting for all members of the group...

Thank you,, Jeanette we hope not only to do Calton Athletic and our late founder Davie Bryce proud but also the whole of Scotland.

We set off from Glasgow on November 10th flying to Heathrow a quick bite to eat before the long-haul flight to Delhi, another couple of hours in the airport before flying to Kathmandu in Nepal. We came on this trek as a group but many of us have brought personal items to be left on Base camp Everest. 

After arriving in Nepal we drove to the summit hotel where we had some dinner and spent the night. An early rise Saturday morning and we set off for our flight and on to Lukla airstrip this flight was an experience all on its own landing on a length of tarmac on the side of a mountain.

We find ourselves at a height of 2800M (9340 ft) After some light refreshments at the Tara lodge the group take in some local culture at a nearby village, before heading to the archway in Lukla this is the beginning of the trail to Base Camp.

Namche Bazar 3450m

We pass through several local homesteads and villages meeting the locals and learning the history, all the locals are very friendly and welcoming the trail is starting to become very busy.

At one resting point we catch our first views of Everest and we eventually climb to a height of 3450m (11.512ft) and enter the village of Namche Bazar, early Sunday evening and head towards our lodge the hotel Sherwi khangba which Mungo informs us it’s at the top of the village.

After collecting our kit bags and unpacking our day bags we settled in for our evening meal when Mungo informed us we would have a rest day tomorrow (Monday) and if we wanted we could get up at 5am and watch the sunrise over the peak of Everest and get some photos of the Tenzing Norgay memorial statue.

5am and 5 of us start on the short walk up to the very top of the village, another bitterly cold morning we dawned our head torches to find the way, 10 minutes later which felt like an hour catching our breath and trying to keep warm we arrived at the memorial plot just as dawn is breaking and lighting up the area like a stage as though they knew we were coming.

It may have been the serenity of the morning or the memorial site itself but there was a peace in everyone one of us as we reflected on the massive journey we have been as a group before landing at Lukla and the 4 days we have had to get to this point. What have the next 11 days had in store.

We stayed up there for about an hours taking pictures and reading the history of Tenzing and Hillary on their journey and knowing we are walking the same path as they did.

Thyangboche monastery 3.867m

We started on the trail Tuesday 15th November again it was a hot and dusty start and we are told we are climbing to the Thyangboche monastery 3.867m (12,687 ft) where we will receive a kata scarf and blessing from the monks and take in the local festival.

Half way to our next destination we passed the local people that repair the paths and at this section they were making the track wider. They are taking collection for the locals to keep this work going and we are all too happy to chip in with a donation and signing their book as we passed.

Helicopters are flying frequently up and down the valley either dropping off supplies or helping people off the mountain that have paid for the privilege or they’re in serious trouble and need to be air lifted down.

We stop for our lunch and spot our hard-working yak man Jetta catching up with us and straight on through to set up camp at the next lodge he is a quiet unsung hero.

It has been a hard day getting higher and the air is thinner and becoming aware of our heavier breathing some of the guys are experiencing excruciating sore heads and take in a quick nap after lunch.

We made it to the monastery and got a chance to stop in for tea and coffee and a slice of cake at the bakery before the festival started.

The sun drops quickly sending the temperature in the valley plummeting and we witness the sunset on Everest this time it gets that cold our camera batteries freeze and we are unable to take any more photos until we drop down to our lodge in Deboche.
We are totally exhausted when we arrive but still manage to entertain some other travellers with a few songs on the guitar after dinner.

The memorial sight

After a day’s rest in Dingbouche the group are still extremely drained after another extremely cold breathless night. We get up get breakfast by 7am and start climbing at 8am leaving the sonam friendship lodge and the village in the shadow of the valley we climb into the sun.

Stopping almost within the first hour to take off some jackets and jumpers there's to be many stops today as altitude once again takes it toll as we head towards 16.000 ft.

First, we must cross a large open plain where the dust becomes sand like again filling our lungs and nostrils again we see the yak man and his animals in the distance slowly they catch up and pass us by. Half way across this open space we stop for another break not many people on the trail today but the ones we do see are finding it hard as well.

The group trek on until we see Dughla appear as if from nowhere out the side of the mountain our lunch break at last at 4620m (15.416 ft) we leave the Thukla restaurant again climbing at a slow pace before resting at the memorial sight.

These memorials are in memory of individuals who have lost their lives on the mountain most of them heading to take on the peak of Everest but a few that lost their lives trying to reach base camp.

Once again even with the sun out the camera batteries begin to freeze making it impossible to take photos as we reach the Oxygen altitude home our lodge for the night at 4940m (16.484 ft). 

Its bitterly cold and this may be another long uncomfortable sleepless night for some of the group.

Base Camp

We arrive at the lodge at Gorakshep frozen and hungry and we make the decision whether to head to Base Camp after lunch. Several things lead to our decision and in no way are we criticising the facilities or these fantastic people who work here but this is the last lodge before Base Camp whereas in other villages there are many lodges. here at Gorakshep there is only one. Walking up to the lodge we notice the wooden shack outdoor toilets a good 150 yards from the lodge which by now we have become accustomed to. Mungo has already warned us to take extra care with our hygiene here. We are not able to wash regularly, and the order of the day is baby wipes and antiseptic hand sanitiser. The lodge itself used by hundreds if not thousands of people has taken a battering with the traffic passing through it. We check out our rooms and with the ice on the inside of the windows and icy patches on the floor most of us have decided not to unpack our bags but mainly stay in the same clothes we are in as it’s so cold. You can sense even the Sherpas don’t enjoy being here these guys have looked after us, getting us boiling water which later becomes our drinking water the next day, help get us food, teas and coffees through-out the trip but there is an unease amongst them now but they still do a fantastic job and serve us up lunch
The talk of heading to Base Camp comes up we are unable to get hold of Mungo at this point by sat phone and are unaware of his position on the mountain. If we go to Base camp tomorrow, then it is two nights here in Gorakshep. If we make a move for Base Camp today, then we can start heading back down tomorrow to be with Mungo and the other 2 guys. The hot food and coffees seem to energizer the group and we quickly make the decision. "let’s go for it"
We empty our rucksacks the sun is high in the sky we see no need for waterproofs or any extra food we load up with warm jumpers hats, gloves and water and set off.
It’s a dusty trail to start with and again this is baby like steps with just about everyone suffering with sore heads now soon we are surrounded by icy peaks which we move through on to a more rocky climb which has us up high and looking down onto Base Camp.
We get ready to head down into Base Camp knowing that its approx. 17.760 ft and here we find ourselves at the very least a couple of hundred feet above it. Another group passing us informs us that we have peaked at 18.000 ft.
The group arrive elated at Base Camp and take a well-earned rest. There are two seasons to come here we came in Autumn and the other is spring and it is hard to imagine that all this ground that we are walking on is completely covered in ice and snow. We stay here for just little over an hour before heading back to our lodge at Gorakshep.
We realise very quickly as another couple of the members take unwell this trek is far from over we still have the small matter of getting ourselves back down but at least for the moment we can Basque in the glory That CALTON ATHLETIC RECOVERY GROUP made it to Base Camp. We hope we did everyone who supported us and our late founder Davie Bryce proud.
Do Well Doubt Not

Beyond your wildest dreams…

2014 The Training Begins

Last week in Scotland, Jagged Globe Instructor and expedition leader, Mungo Ross, worked with a group who hope to complete the Everest 3 Peaks 3 Passes trek in spring 2016.

" I have just had a brilliant day out on the Wee Buchaille in Glen Coe with seven members of this group from Glasgow as an introduction to our preparations for their planned trip to Nepal the year after next."

John Ferns, their spokesman, explains the background; "We are a self-funded and self-supporting group of reformed alcohol and drug addicts who have discovered hillwalking and mountaineering as a source of real inspiration and motivation to help keep us focused in our determination to lead our new-found lives. Calton Athletic is there for anyone who is looking for help with the nightmare of drink or drug abuse, and we as a group are committed to helping and supporting each other out of the dark and into the daylight. Discovering the hills has been brilliant, whether walking the West Highland Way, ticking off the Munros (some of us have done around 18 so far), or just enjoying the views and fresh air so near to Glasgow. We were lucky to come across Heather Morning who did some basic training with us and organised a trip to the Austrian Alps last summer where we got a taste of glaciers and higher peaks. Now we are setting our sights even higher and are planning an adventurous trek over high passes to visit Everest Base Camp in the spring of 2016. Meeting Mungo has got us in touch with Jagged Globe who we will be using for all our planning and support."

2015

We have not had much luck with the weather on our days up the hill together; last Saturday was one of those dreich, damp, sweaty, midgy days in the Cairngorms, but none of that has deterred the Boys from Glasgow on their mission to get themselves to Everest Base Camp in November; Bynack More has now been added to their list of completed Munros. As well as getting out into the hills, regular gym sessions and fitness classes are paying off a good few of them ran the Edinburgh marathon a couple of weeks ago; and a select few were acting as extras for Danny Boyle in the filming of the sequel to Trainspotting the other day. Their fundraising has taken a real boost from the Scottish Mountaineering Trust awarding them a significant grant toward the Nepal trek and they are working like crazy at raising the cash to pay for this trip-of-a-lifetime.

Their excitement is tangible - what started as a dream nearly two years ago is suddenly actually happening; going through the kit list and final pre-expedition planning with them was buzzing with questions and suggestions. If going to Everest Base Camp can provide an incentive to help keep off drink and drugs it strikes me as a pretty good reason to go, there! And when this team gets there it’­s going to be a pretty powerful message of hope and an inspiration to others still stuck in the dark world of the Glasgow drug scene.

This is an amazing group of people who are evidence of what is possible with determination and mutual support.

We met in Aviemore on the 7th of Feb to go through the form-filling and preparation they need to do between now and November, then went for a very wet and windy walk in Gleann Eanaich, keeping off the Cairngorm Plateau in the latest storm to sweep through Scotland this winter. If their commitment and enthusiasm to tackle days like these are anything to go by, the trek to EBC will be a dawdle!!! Going to see Everest Base Camp just for its own sake strikes me as a good enough reason; if it provides a goal and the incentive to stick to a programme of support and recovery as tough as these guys are, it’s an even better reason. We will have another couple of days together on the hill before we go, in the meantime they are training hard to turn a dream into reality.

The beginning of our journey.

Walking under the Lukla arch was symbolic for entering the Khumbu valley. We head along the river and downhill, getting to know our Sherpas a bit better. The trail is dry and dusty sometimes sand like which is typical through-out the trek.

We head to the village of Phakting arriving at the Sherpa guide lodge at 2600m(8670ft) where we spend Saturday night the group are tired and are glad of this welcomed rest but with an unsettled night’s sleep ahead from nerves and excitement.

After a freezing cold night, we awaken to a bitterly cold Sunday morning to find the sherpas and the staff of the lodge are already up and preparing breakfast for us.

We pack our kit bags and assemble for the days trek. We are beginning to realise that even packing our bags at altitude is exhausting and this is only the 2nd day. we start walking again along the river watching the sun coming over the mountains before it heats up the whole Khumbu valley a welcomed sight to us all.

Hotel Everest View 3880m

After breakfast Mungo suggests a bit of acclimatisation with a trek to the Hotel Everest view at the height of 3,880m (12.947 ft) this was approximately a five hundred feet climb from our lodge and the walking was slow and steep.

As some of the guys stayed and rested in the lodge to prepare for tomorrows trek the same guys that watch the sunrise decided to tackle the walk to the Hotel Everest View and you will see with the photos it was well worth the effort not only for the views of Mt Everest the tea and coffee was worth it too.

This was also one of the better parts in the valley for a phone signal and internet access and we all took advantage of phoning back home to tell our loved ones how far we had come already.

Coldest night yet

This is to be our coldest night yet and we are getting used to taking our flasks with hot water into our sleeping bags and when cooled this is our drinking water for the next day. 
Mungo and the Sherpas warn us is going to get much harder from here on up. The group wake miserable experiencing sore heads, sinuses blocked sometimes with blood and breathless in the night throwing sleep deprivation into the mix. We are finding the altitude a right tough challenge and yet we have some way still to go.

We assemble as usual in the cold our Sherpa up and ready and the yaks packed already, we head up the valley once again waiting on the sun rising giving us our usual morning welcomed heat.

After leaving Deboche the group walk into Pangboche in the sun for a well-earned hot tang break before walking on to stop for lunch, sore heads are force some of the group to take a nap.

The temperature plummets again we wrap up and march on to Dingboche exhausted and frozen we reach 4343m (14,250 ft)

Next day is a rest day, gratefully by getting up for breakfast and visiting the local internet cafe we got the chance to speak to our loved ones again and get some of our clothes washed.

We also had our weekly Tuesday meeting Wullie Burns delivered a fantastic and emotional top table, the emotion was felt by everyone with emotional feedback from the group.

The group settled into the remainder of this rest day by entertaining the locals with some more songs on the guitar before bedding down for the night.

It’s cold at this height and we realise now it’s not going to get any warmer...

Lobouche 5000m (16404 ft)

We have just reached Lobouche and the cold is still affecting our cameras and phone batteries preventing us from taking photos. Some of the group are so cold they head to their sleeping bags straight away well the rest huddle round the log burner in the dining area.
One of the group is struggling to heat up and we wrap him up tightly in his bag with 2 hot water bottles. Everyone appears to be struggling at this point and the thought of a hot meal on its way keeps us going. We all have our dinner at 7pm and before 9.30pm we are all in bed.
Most of the group are woken at midnight by Mungo who informs us that the member who couldn't heat up is bitterly cold once again and unable to sleep He asks Darwa our head Sherpa to boil water for more bottles, a second member of the group is really struggling to breathe and also feeling effects of the extremely cold night. Everyone manages to settle down a little and we all doze on and off through-out the night and wake to another frozen cold morning were Mungo has made the decision that 2 of the members are suffering from altitude sickness and have to go down to a lower altitude for safety and a check-up at the medical centre at pheriche.
This sends shock through the whole group and Mungo instructs us to rest for the whole day. We sat in silence most of the day the remaining six deep in thought. Some of us certainly thinking "could I be next" and some with tears in their eyes with friends who had came so far and even helped us at times reach Lobouche now heading down the mountain.
We took no photos this day mainly sat and thought what the next cold night would bring.
This is where our photos pick up from. We wake frozen again and the talk is of how Mungo and the 2 members should be at Pheriche and the safety of the medical centre by now. We hug mugs of coffee and wait for breakfast whilst the Sherpas pack the gear on the yaks getting ready to move on to our next and last lodge at Gorekshep. 
We head off after breakfast this is a long slow steep climb stopping several times from lack of oxygen and sheer exhaustion whilst moving we feel warm under the sun but as soon as we stop the cold bites right through our clothes.
You can feel a sadness within the group that we are moving on without 2 members and we push hard to get to Gorekshep for just after lunch time.
We head down into the lodge at 5180m (17.285 ft) We are all cold and drained but there is already talk that we should push on to reaching Base camp today.